Toronto’s Bannock: Comfortably Good

Say what you want about Oliver & Bonacini’s brand, they have recently hit on a great little formula that seems to work in my book.  Their newer restaurants like Luma and Cantina provide good food, good service, and a relaxed-yet-classy ambiance.  This opinion extends to the Bannock, a lovely little spot just across from Old City Hall in Toronto.

We came here during a recent trip out East to visit the family and stopped into Toronto for a few days of reunions and face-stuffing.  We had moved from Toronto to Vancouver before the restaurant opened, and when we first saw Bannock we were amazed at how the place looked (especially when you compare it to the coffee place that was there before).  The natural-looking design materials add a nice warmth, and seem to absorb hard sounds, so that all that is left is the energetic murmur of customers’ conversations.

Our waitress was great, knowledgeable about the food, enthusiastic about the ingredients, and quick to take our orders.

Burger and Root Crisps

I was in the mood for a burger.  I know it’s not the most exciting selection, but I always consider burgers to be a kind of litmus test for a restaurant (like an omelet is for a chef).  Bannock’s burger and “root crisps” (i.e., fancy chips) were great.  The burger was well seasoned and beautifully moist.  the root crisps were nothing to write home about, but they added a nice crunch to the place, and were more interesting than regular chips.

Moroccan-inspired Lamb Stew

My wife had a daily special, a kind of Moroccan lamb stew.  Now that was something to write home about.  The temperature in downtown Toronto that day hovered around -15 celcius with the wind chill, so the belly-warming goodness and subtle spiciness of the stew really hit the spot.

From a value perspective, I have to admit that these dishes were a little pricey (my burger was $15) but if you have a little extra cash to throw around the entire Bannock experience is worth it.  My main criticism, however, is how they charged/gouged us for flat water without informing us, making us feel as if we’d been had, and making the restaurant look cheap.  I’m fairly easy to please, but such antics constitute a cardinal sin in my book.

Ignoring the entire “water issue”, Bannock is a solid all around experience, and though the food is a tad pricey, its worth visiting at least once if you find yourself in downtown Toronto.  I’m not sure I’d go back, but I’m glad I went.

 

Thomas Haas: Possibly the best chocolate and viennoiserie place in Vancouver?

I have lived a charmed life, and some of its summers were spent in France. Part of my healthy diet was chocolate…lots and lots of amazing, high octane chocolate. Despite my best efforts, rare were the chocolate places that stack up to the those childhood memories until I went to Thomas Haas in Vancouver.

Though I only spent a little time here, everything was amazing. The coffee was good, the atmosphere warm, the decor sleek, and the staff was very friendly. Mr. Haas was even behind the counter, smiling and laughing with clients.

Lemon Tart

On the menu for our little afternoon snack were two cakes. The first was a phenomenal lemon tart. The lemony taste was sharp and bright, and the smooth texture of the filling was beautifully contrasted by the (not too) crispness of the crust.

The second item was a pistachio sour cherry tart. This was also a real feast for the eyes and the palate. Again, the execution was great, and the tartness of the cherry was highlighted and tamed by the dessert’s sweet dimensions.

Pistachio Sour Cherry Tart

On a second visit, we also bought some pretty exceptional Thomas Haas chocolates. The quality of the chocolate was some of the best I’ve found in North America, and the balance of each chocolate’s flavours was a great pleasure. Each chocolate was like a glittering jewel that I found myself admiring for a few moments before my more primal instincts took hold and it disappeared.

We also bought a Stollen cake which was something to behold.

The only factor to keep in mind when visiting Thomas Haas’ stores is that they can be wildly busy. The first time I came here a line actually snaked out the door! If you can wait, however (and I strongly recommend that you do), you will not be disappointed. This may very well be the best chocolate and viennoiserie in the city.

 

Momiji: Seattle Zen

It is said that the small entrances of Japanese teahouses forced travelers and samurai to remove their heavy bags and swords in order to enter, thus allowing them to symbolically jettison there outer selves and better relax into the building’s serene atmosphere.  Momiji in Seattle, Washington also provides such an oasis from the city courtesy of its interior Japanese garden, warm design, and delicious Japanese food.

Momiji's Garden

When we arrived, we were immediately greeted and ushered to the back of the restaurant, which houses a seating area with a wonderful garden in the middle (pictured on the left).  As night falls, and as you feast on the healthy selection of food, night falls and the garden glows peacefully in the background.

While perusing the menu, we enjoyed cocktails.  My wife had the delicious Dhampir (Ikkomon, orange, lemon, brown sugar-vanilla syrup) and I had a shochu (I love me my imo shochu).  After a while we thought we should just go hog wild and order a little bit of everything.

First to arrive was the oyster shooter.  It was  great start to the meal, and cleansed our palates.  Next, we ordered some some sashimi and sushi.  The fish was top quality and the sushi on offer was beautifully crafted and intelligently conceived.  There were no heavy sauces or surplus ingredients.  The rice, I note, was also beautifully seasoned, leaving us with the feeling that the chef knew exactly what he was doing.

As we ate, the other side dishes arrived, including some lovely gyoza, and a very nice and fragrant chawan mushi.  The pace of the service was just right, and we felt well taken care of by our waiter and waitress, who zipped around the dining room attending to the many, full tables.  When the bill arrived, I found the total to be very reasonable.

Momiji is a very special place.  We’ve all been to countless restaurants, most forgotten and others forgettable, but this is one that will live with me for quite some time.  In fact, we hadn’t even left for the night when we started to talk about coming to Seattle again to come back to Momiji.

 

L’Abattoir: More please…

“Dine Out Vancouver” is upon us, and not a moment too soon. The weather has been poor this week, and this can drive a man to drink…or eat…or both (ideally). That’s why I’m glad we got a “Dine Out Vancouver” reservation at L’Abattoir, the cozy little restaurant with a bloody good name.

Warm Steelhead and Potato Salad

My app was a lovely warm steel head and potato salad. The fish was lovely and succulent, which contrasted brilliantly with the crispy potatoes and the smokiness of the pork sprinkled in the salad for good measure. My wife had the gnocchi in a sabayon sauce which made me weep with pleasure.

Our mains were similarly amazing. I had a duck breast and leg meat sausage with buttered green cabbage and pan fried German noodles. The dish was tender and generous.

My wife’s homemade pasta stuffed with braised lamb shoulder roast tenderloin, ricotta cheese (which cut some of the richness of the meat) and tomato and onion pan gravy was also very good. To be honest, however, and despite the fact that all the ingredients were top notch and treated with great respect, I wondered how the dish would work if they removed half the ingredients. That said, each plate was very, very good.

In any event, the entire meal was lit by the warm glow of my new best friend: the Gassy Jack Flip. Anything with Wild Turkey in it can’t be beat.

The desserts, like the rest of the meal, were great. I had a very rich chocolate caramel bar with banana ice cream. Given the rich nature of the meal, however, I think my wife’s choice of the Earl Grey Pot de Creme with light-as-air whipped milk was the wiser choice.

L’Abattoir is a nice, cozy place – especially on a rainy Vancouver evening. The service is friendly and unpretentious, the ingredients fabulous, and it is relatively good value (though a proper meal will set you back at least $50/person). I would definitely come back here and recommend that if you haven’t made it down, that you give it a try.

 

Italian Kitchen: Pretty Darn Good…

I love being pleasantly surprised by a restaurant, and Italian Kitchen recently did that.  We were feeling a bit puckish on a sunny Saturday afternoon, thought we’d live dangerously and eat on Alberni Street in Vancouver.

Italian Kitchen has all the hallmarks of a pretentious, chi-chi restaurant and so I was a little skeptical about what I would expect.  All of my concerns, however, dissolved within about 5 minutes of settling in.

We were greeted warmly, seated immediately, and served some sparkling water as we reviewed the enormous (it was the unwieldy size of a small coffee table) menu.  We ordered a number of dishes which were brought to us very quickly.

Lobster-tastic Monte Cristo

I decided to splurge and have the lobster and crab monte cristo.  It was absolutely delicious.  The outside was crispy and the seafood inside was fabulous.  The sandwich was served with a delicious soup of the day, which was finished with truffle oil, and really balanced out the robust taste of the sandwich.

We also ordered spaghetti with meatballs.  Again, Italian Kitchen’s cooks knocked this meal out of the park.  The pasta was amazing, the sauce was delicious, and the meatballs were succulent and well-seasoned.  My sense is that they make their own pasta (my wife saw a room full of noodles being made when she went to wash her hands) which was certainly appreciated.

Delicious Spaghetti and Meatballs

The service was also quite good (despite one waitress being unusually intense) with our main waiter being attentive without being fussy.  It was also very “democratic”, in that we were given the same professional service as movie star Terrance Howard who was sitting a table away.

Though Italian Kitchen is a bit overpriced, it’s well worth going to.

 

 

Teahouse in Stanley Park: Serenity in the Downtown Peninsula

Stanley Park in Vancouver is an astonishing place, giving visitor the feeling that they are far away from the city despite being on the downtown peninsula.  On the Western tip of this lovely space is a similarly lovely restaurant – Teahouse.

Teahouse is located in an old army officers’ club.  The restaurant is divided up into three or four main rooms (and a patio during good weather), each with their own charm.  The one thing that unites all sections is the pleasant atmosphere and professional service.  The waiters and waitresses are impeccably groomed, well dressed, and as knowledgeable about the menu as they are polite.

Salmon Burger. Yum...

The menu offered a number of delicious selections.   I ordered the salmon burger, which was very well cooked and garnished with the usual suspects and a mayonnaise that gave the sandwich some bite.  It was also served with some perfunctory fries.  Though the dish isn’t much to look at (see the photo), the care and skill that went into the meal was not lost on me.

My wife ordered a smoked salmon eggs Benedict.  The eggs were expertly cooked and the Hollandaise sauce was delicious.  Again, this was a well-executed, straightforward dish that delivered exactly what was advertised.

The Flat Bread "Pizza"

On offer was also a kind of pizza (I can’t recall the exact name) which featured fresh greens, smoked salmon, fresh grated cheese and red onions.  The ingredients were served on a crispy flat bread, and would do very well as a light snack during a break from a Stanley Park walk.

Overall, this was an extremely pleasant, unpretentious experience in a warm and comfortable environment.  Teahouse offers excellent quality on all fronts, and I look forward to my next trip to the park if only as an excuse to return to this enjoyable venue.

 

Sushi Zero One: It Ain’t Much to Look at but…

You could be forgiven for walking right past Sushi Zero One and missing it completely.  Its storefront is nondescript.  Its interior isn’t particularly attractive.  But then there’s the food, which is a different matter all together.

I visited Sushi Zero One a few weeks ago after hearing it had a good reputation for solid sushi.  Unlike many reviews I have read, I wasn’t particularly put off by the unimpressive interior.  The restaurant is unpretentious and, in my opinion, should be seen more as a take out place rather than a sit down restaurant.  I used to work at a similar place in Montreal – Sushi Volant - back when it was run by the beloved “Tobi-san”.  Despite its interior, Sushi Volant had a well deserved reputation for serving up some of the best (if not the best) sushi in Montreal.  So it was with a nostalgic, wistful understanding that I approached Zushi Zero One.

Delicious sushi (please ignore the dixie plate...)

We ordered a sushi combo and chirashi sushi.  The sushi combo was unceremoniously served on a paper plate (pictured on the right) which frankly detracted from the entire experience, but the quality of the ingredients more than made up for it.  The fish was very fresh and tasty.  The rice was also wonderfully seasoned and texturally pleasant.  The selection was also something to behold for a combination of food that clocks in just over $10.  Ordinarily, I find it difficult to eat nothing but sushi for dinner (I crave greater variety) but this was different.

Ikura jewels in chirashi sushi

The chirashi don was similarly successful.  The rice was just as lovely as in the sushi, but this dish featured delicious salmon roe (ikura) that exploded in your mouth.  The generous slices of fish and other seafood that adorned the chirashi sushi smelled of the sea and was buttery.  I also appreciated the daikon leaves/sprouts that added a hint of pepper to the dish.  Though it is by no means high cuisine, this dish satisfies and is relatively good value at about $10 before taxes.

Though this is not a place you would go to eat at for a first date, it is potentially one you’d get takeout from for a third date (if you know what I mean…).  It’s also the best sushi I’ve had in downtown Vancouver to date.

 

Marulilu Cafe: The Little Cafe That Could

Tucked away on Broadway near the corner of Cambie is a busy little cafe that serves up simple, delicious food: the Marulilu Cafe.

I went to Marulilu for lunch a few weeks ago. Despite showing up at about 1:30′ish, the cafe was packed and alive with the laughs and conversations of a weekend afternoon. Luckily, a stray table had just been left open, and my wife and I pounced on it before perusing the menu.

A coffee jelly latte chillaxing with its cousin, the macha latte.

Marulilu’s menu is classic Japanese cafe. Loads of delicious breakfast goodies, light lunch fares (salads, rice burgers, etc.) and more traditional Japanese comfort food like katsudon, oyakodon, and okonomiyaki. There is also a lengthy list of drinks on offer, including Marulilu’s yummy macha lattes and coffee jelly drinks. The selection of drinks alone (especially if, as wife is, you have a weakness for coffee jelly) are worth a trip here.

We ordered a few drinks (featured in this first photo), and I ordered a rice burger set. The set comes with a duo of rice burger patties, the first adorned with sukiyaki sauce and the second kimchi sauce. It also came with a salad (seasoned with a surprisingly good salad dressing) and a miso soup. The staff was very friendly and all smiles.

It is here, however, that I pause to comment on the weakest link in the Marulilu experience: Its ordering system. I’ve read a review or two that has complained about this. Essentially, you go to the counter, order, and then have a seat. Though in theory it is not a problem, few people were aware of this, and the line up of those who were snaked awkwardly around the tables in the restaurant, adding a layer of claustrophobia to what was a cozy atmosphere.** But I digress with my picky comment…back to the food.

The Rice Burger Set - Kimchi and Sukiyaki

The presentation of my lunch set was very cute (reminiscent of MOS Burger) and the portion size was ideal for lunch. The rice burger patties were just how I like them, crispy and crunchy on the outside, and moist and warm on the inside. The different sauces were also delicious. The miso soup was nothing to write home about, but its inclusion in my lunch combo was welcome, and its earthy flavour counterbalanced the sweet and spicy of the burgers, and the sweet and acid of the salad.

Before leaving, as we relaxed with our drinks, the staff promptly came by to take away the empty dishes to give us more space. It was a nice touch and shows that despite being busy as bees, the servers somehow still manage to be attentive to the customers.

Overall, Marulilu was a very nice experience. It is very much a “what you see is what you get” cafe – unpretentious and friendly with good food. The restaurant is also relatively good value, and the food will leave you satiated and satisfied. If you’re in the neighbourhood, or even if you’re not, I ‘d suggest heading over to Marulilu for a pleasant meal or a leisurely break.

[** This unfortunate situation may be related to the bizarre layout of the restaurant. The kitchen/counter  juts out and takes out a massive amount of unnecessary space, and the bathroom is enormous. One can't help but wonder why this is, and why the issue hasn't been remedied.]

 

Motomachi Shokudo: A Taste of Ramen Heaven

Who knew that charcoal ramen would taste good, let alone make sense? I guess the mastermind behind Motomachi Shokudo (“Motomachi”) on Denman Street in Vancouver. The delicious bowl of noodles, and the entire experience, was top shelf and makes me want to head back soon.

Like many great places, Motomachi is unassuming from the exterior, and is not adorned with a perpetual long line of people snaking out of its front door like its Denman cousin, Kintaro Ramen. The restaurant is relatively narrow, with seating for less than 20 (including the spots at the counter), so its a pretty intimate experience. Motomachi’s design, and the speedy and friendly service, also adds to the restaurant’s amiable feel.

After a quick review of the menu, I was immediately drawn to the “charcoal ramen” on offer. I’d never heard of such a thing, and I was initially skeptical of its black broth. The little blurb (you can read a version of it in the photo on this blog) exalting the benefits of charcoal tipped the scales, however. I threw caution to the wind and decided to order a bowl, some gyoza, and a beer.

Motomachi Shokudo's charcoal ramen (and an order of gyoza hiding behind the bowl).

The kitchen was very quick in getting the ramen to me, and I was pleasantly surprised. Though you can definitely taste the charcoal’s influence in the dish, you don’t feel like you’re eating handfuls of ash. In fact, it’s fair to say that the charcoal actually provided a nice, bold contrast to the broth and the sweetness and umami of its other constituent parts.

Oh…and as you can tell from the photo, there were many a constituent part to this generous dish. Below the egg, seaweed, and vegetables, there were also a stack of pork slices that filled me right up. Though plentiful, I found the pork to be slightly dry/overcooked. It did not bother me, however, because one can remedy this minor criticism by combining a each pork slice with a sip of broth.

As for the gyoza, it was pretty much your standard gyoza deal (NB: In the interest of full disclosure, I am a horrible gyoza snob). I suspect that they had spent some time in a freezer, but then you don’t go to a ramen place for gourmet gyoza.

As for the price of my meal: My ramen was a little under $10 before taxes, making it a little bit pricey for a bowl of noodles, but good value given the mountain of goodness contained in the hefty ramen bowl.

Overall, I would definitely recommend Motomachi. Its an easy-going place with a nice atmosphere, good service, an interesting menu, and good food. What more can you ask for?

 

Feastro the Rolling Bistro: Raising the Bar for Food Trucks

“Feastro the Rolling Bistro“, the Vancouver food truck, is something to behold.  The truck is big, its food is bold, and the flavours it dishes out bang on.

I wandered down to Feastro (roughly on the corner of Thurlow and West Cordova) on Friday and the first thing I noticed was the line up snaking out from its order/pick-up window.  This was a good sign.

Feastro is a Beastro

As I waited in the glorious sun, I reviewed the menu.  Feastro offers a number of different dishes, but its menu is loyal to its core ingredients – fresh seafood.  Being in the mood for salty and savoury, I opted for their prawn and grilled prosciutto taco.  My order was taken quickly and communicated to the 2 or 3 cooks working in the tight quarters that is the Feastro’s kitchen.

This may sound nerdy, but I was truly amazed at Feastro’s ordering and food delivery system.  Despite the fact that orders streamed in relentlessly, the kitchen managed to pump out the whole range of items on its menu in a quick, organized, clean, accurate, and beautiful way.

I have to give Feastro massive bonus points for pushing the boundaries of what food truck fare can be.  Sure, you might have to wait 3-5 minutes for your food (and some reviewers groan about this) but when you think of what you’re actually getting its quite astonishing.  And this brings me back to my taco.

My punchy little taco sunning itself at Coal Harbour

Though I’ve added a photo of my taco to this blog to give you a sense of the dish, sadly it does not do justice to the look of my lunch.  The prawns were nicely seasoned, had a great bite (from being brined, I wonder?), and were the centre of the various flavours contained in this dish:  The prosciutto added the salt and a bit of chewiness, the arugula and other greens the pepperiness, and the salsa and lime juice the citrus-zing, and the fried onions added some crunch.

Feastro’s kitchen was not shy about portions.  The taco hardly fit on my plate and I had to thin out some of the ingredients before I could wrap them up in the lovely soft shell.  The dish ran me $8, which is very good value compared to the other Vancouver food trucks and when you consider the care that went into this meal.

My experience at Feastro was a very positive one and I would highly recommend that you take advantage of the last few glorious weeks of Vancouver summer weather and head down to Thurlow and West Cordova for some Feastro goodness.